Some clothes pins, a shower curtain rod, and one drop of liquid dish soap to one gallon of water to make a PhotoFlow final-final rinse agent. Scissors, can opener, two-reel 35mm developing tank and two reels. A decent,accurate thermometer that reads from 65 to 80 degrees Farenheit is VERY nice to have. Kodak Indicator Stop Bath is good (vinegar or water can be substituted),a stopwatch or timer or clock, and some Ilford brand ready-to-use Fixer.
PHOTOFLOW FILM FULL
You load up the changing bag with film,can opener,scissors, and the developing tank and reel,and open the canister with the can opener, trim the film leader end with scissors, load the reel with film,use the scissors to trim the film end, and then put the loaded reel into the tank, cap the tank, and you're ready to develop the film-in full room light! Now, tearing the film end from the spool? That can and often does cause static mini-lightning-like sparks! Seriously!ī&W film developing is pretty easy, and temperature control is not nearly as critical nor as difficult, as with C-41 color.īasically, one needs Kodak HC-110 film developer concentrate, a 1-ounce or 2-ounce graduated cylinder, a 16-ounce measuring cup, a stirring stick, some bottles (dark, 40-ounce beer bottles can be used) to store stop bath and fixe. Similar to a jacket is a changing bag, a zipper-closure bag, often double thickness black fabric, with two elasticized sleeves. This totally dark area can be a window-less room with the door completely blocked off from any and all light, or with the user sitting under a blanket, or with the film and tank shielded from light inside using something like a zipped up, thick jacket. First, one needs a 100% light-proof, totally dark area, to load the film into the "daylight film developing tank". I've developed film off and on since the 1970's,at home, without a "real" darkroom.
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